Teaching Tech 3D Printer Calibration
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This page serves as a companion for this video:
It aims to make calibrating your 3D printer as easy as possible. If you find it helps you and you would like to say thank you, here is a donation link: PayPal.me
Special thanks to my Patrons for suggesting this video and helping define the contents.
Watch the video and then work through each tab. I have created a custom gcode generator to assist in testing towers. Every attempt has been made to ensure this is safe but ultimately there always is risk in running presliced gcode from the internet. Preview the gcode in your slicer or Gcode.ws and print at your own risk.
Before we do anything else, we need to ensure there are no underlying problems with the frame. It would be easy to use the techniques elsewhere on this page to try and fix problems that were actually caused by a problem with the physical components, so we will eliminate this first.
Many of these procedures are covered in this video: Complete beginner's guide to 3D printing - Assembly, tour, slicing, levelling and first prints
Move around the machine and check all fasteners. Crucial ones include those on the print head gantry such as those that hold the hot end on.
If your printer has a motion system based on V-roller wheels riding on V-slot extrusions, check they are properly tensioned. Each location will have one eccentric nut. This can be twisted to either add or remove tension on the wheels.
If the wheels are too loose: Wobble will be present in the assembly, which will show in the print as surface artefacts.
If the wheels are too tight: The assembly is will be too tense, which will wear the V-rollers prematurely.
Probably the most essential part of setting up your 3D printer. Most new users will trip up on this. My method is included in the above video and this diagram is a handy reference:
If your printer has PTFE tube, such as a bowden tube setup for the extruder/hot end, it is essential to make the tube is fully inserted and seated in the coupler. Also ensure the coupler is properly tightened. You may wish to use a small retaining clip on the coupler to prevent the tube working loose: Creality PTFE clip by morfidesign.
It is worth heating up te nozzle and pushing some filament through to see if it is exiting the nozzle properly. If the diameter is inconsistent or the extruded plastic shoots to one side, it may indicate a partial blockage in the nozzle that will be a pain in the future.
A PID autotune is a process that sets the correct parameters for heating the hot end and/or bed.
This procedure is covered in this video: Two easy fixes for 3D printer temperature swings
In Marlin, this is a very straightforward process using M303.
Using a terminal such as Pronterface or Octoprint, enter the following for the hot end:
M303 E1 S200 U1
This will tune the hot end at 200 degrees. The S value can be altered to suit your most common printing temperature. The
M500
For the bed, PIDTEMPBED must be enabled in the firmware, then the command is quite similar:
M303 E-1 S60 U1
The bed is selected with E-1, and the temp set to 60 degrees. Substiture as necessary for your normal printing temperature. Once again save to EEPROM afterwards with:
M500
It may be preferable to have the printer as close to printing conditions as possible during these tuning prodecures. That means having filament loaded and the part cooling fan on for PLA temperatures.
The aim of this print is to establish a baseline for comparison with later tests. The form below will create a customised version of the XYZ 20mm calibration cube by iDig3Dprinting. It is fast to print and gives a good indication if there is any fundamental problem with the printer.