- Frame Check
- PID Autotune
- Baseline Print
- E-steps Calibration
- Driver Current
- Retraction Tuning
- Temperature Tuning
- Acceleration Tuning
- Linear Advance
Frame Check
Before we do anything else, we need to ensure there are no underlying problems with the frame. It would be easy to use the techniques elsewhere on this page to try and fix problems that were actually caused by a problem with the physical components, so we will eliminate this first.
Many of these procedures are covered in this video: Complete beginner's guide to 3D printing - Assembly, tour, slicing, levelling and first prints
Loose nuts and bolts
Move around the machine and check all fasteners. Crucial ones include those on the print head gantry such as those that hold the hot end on.
V-roller tension
If your printer has a motion system based on V-roller wheels riding on V-slot extrusions, check they are properly tensioned. Each location will have one eccentric nut. This can be twisted to either add or remove tension on the wheels.
If the wheels are too loose: Wobble will be present in the assembly, which will show in the print as surface artefacts.
If the wheels are too tight: The assembly is will be too tense, which will wear the V-rollers prematurely.
Bed Levelling
Probably the most essential part of setting up your 3D printer. Most new users will trip up on this. My method is included in the above video and this diagram is a handy reference:
PTFE Tube
If your printer has PTFE tube, such as a bowden tube setup for the extruder/hot end, it is essential to make the tube is fully inserted and seated in the coupler. Also ensure the coupler is properly tightened. You may wish to use a small retaining clip on the coupler to prevent the tube working loose: Creality PTFE clip by morfidesign.
PID Autotune
Baseline Print
The aim of this print is to establish a baseline for comparison with later tests.