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<title>Teaching Tech 3D Printer Troubleshooting</title>
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<img src="img/tt.png" class="icon" style="vertical-align:middle;" /><h1>Teaching Tech 3D Printer Troubleshooting</h1><span id="donate">Useful? Considering supporting me: <a href="https://paypal.me/testlawgicau" target="blank"><img class="icon" src="img/paypal.png" /></a><a href="http://www.patreon.com/teachingtech" target="blank"><img class="icon" src="img/patreon.png" /></a></span>
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<div id="tabs">
<ul>
<li><a href="#general">General Principals</a></li>
<li><a href="#tools">Tools</a></li>
<li><a href="#terminal">Connecting via Terminal</a></li>
<li><a href="#firstlayer">First Layer</a></li>
<li><a href="#filamentjams">Filament Jams</a></li>
<li><a href="#direction">Motor Direction</a></li>
<li><a href="#endstops">Endstops/Filament Runout</a></li>
<li><a href="#pid">BLtouch</a></li>
<li><a href="#pid">Connecting via Terminal</a></li>
</ul>
<div id="general">
<h2>General Principals</h2>
<p>This page serves as a companion for this video: <a href="" target="_blank">3D printer troubleshooting - Identify and solve problems</a></p>
<iframe width="480" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<p>It aims to provide a methodology for identifying and solving common problems that occur with hobby 3D printers. If you find it helps you and you would like to say thank you, here is a donation link: <a href="https://paypal.me/testlawgicau" target="blank">PayPal.me</a></p>
<p>Special thanks to my <a href="http://www.patreon.com/teachingtech" target="_blank">Patrons</a> for helping define the contents.</p>
<p>Watch the video, read this tab, prepare yourself with the appropriate tools and then work through relevant tabs.</p>
<h4>Understand your machine before attempting modification</h4>
<p>Perhaps you have arrived at this page with a standard printer that has brokn down. In this case, ignore this heading. Many people, however, will arrive at this page after performing modifications to their machine. When they turn it back on, something doesn't work as expected.</p>
<p>Often people fall into the trap of modifying a 3D printer as a beginner immediately after purchase. This can be quite risky. Firstly, they do not have a good working knowlegde of how their printer functions. They have not seen it in action long enough to how what purpose of each component is, which increases the chance of the component being reinstalled incorrectly.</p>
<p>Another potential problem is that the user will not appreciate the benefits of the upgrade because they have not worked with the printer in its 'inferior' standard state. In some cases something like an ABL probe will be fitted immediately before the user understands how to manually level the bed. The rush to upgrade deprives the user of learning the fundamentals necessary for efficient and effective long term operation. I am a fan of usng ABL for the added convenience and ability to compensate for a warped bed, but this is because I spent many years without ABL on a less than precise printer.</p>
<h4>Be methodical: only test/change/modify one aspect at a time</h4>
<p>Beginners often tear down a printer and upgrade multiple things at once, which means when it goes back together and doesn't work they have no idea which new component is the problem.</p>
<p>Therefore it is smartest to upgrade one component at a time when the printer is working, or if it has broken down, change one aspect at a time. If we change two aspects and the problem goes away, which of the two changes was responsible? Maybe only one was needed the the uneccessary change will cause problems down the line.</p>
<p>This guide works on the methodology of a scientific test, where only one variable is tested to ensure accuratre results and conclusions are forthcoming.</p>
<h4>When asking for help, be specific</h4>
<p>If all else fails and you approach a community group for assistance, try to help them help you. Specify your printer, mainboard, stepper drivers, firmware, modifications, slicer, etc. Anything that is relevant to the situation. Tuning the current delivered to the stepper motors differs significantly depending on these variables. </p>
<p>Use free services like:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://filebin.net/" target="_blank">Filebin</a> to upload gcode files for others to examine and preview.</li>
<li><a href="https://pastebin.com/" target="_blank">Pastebin</a> to dislay firmware configuration information or other relevant data. Forums will often garble sensitive data that needs to be read accurately.</li>
<li><a href="https://imgur.com/" target="_blank">Imgur</a> to upload images of your problem. A picture paints a thousand words and is quite often the most effivient way to communicate a problem.</li>
<li><a href="https://streamable.com/" target="_blank">Streamable</a> to upload a video of the problem. This again can be incredibly useful in helping others diagnose your problem.</li>
</ul>
<p>All of the sites above are free to use and do not require an account.</p>
<h4>Use the search feature</h4>
<p>On the internet, with something as popular as 3D printing, there is a fair chance someone has had your particular problem before. Sometimes everything feels overwhelmning and you really want a human to advise you but you should always start by searching. This can be in community groups or the <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues" target="_blank">GitHub issue section (eg. Marlin)</a> for youre hardware or firmware. People understandably get annoyed if you don't undertake this basic step. Why should you expect them to invest time in helping you when you can't even be bothered to type a few words in a search box?</p>
<h4>Be patient and appreciative</h4>
<p>Unless you are accessing paid technical support, everyone involved is assisting for free in their spare time. It may take them a long time to get back to you if at all. Even paid technical support may not have quick answers. Their efficacy depends a lot on your ability to accurately convey the problem.</p>
<h4>Pay it forward</h4>
<p>Once you do find the solution to your problem, make it public so it may benefit future searchers. If using a community group message board, mark the issue as solved, post the solution and thank those who helped you. In time, as you become more experienced and confident, consider helping the beginners who are in the same situation you were in at one stage.</p>
</div>
<div id="tools">
<h2>Tools</h2>
<p>I have a video on useful tools for 3D printing: <a href="https://youtu.be/XBoXp31PCo8" target="_blank">Essential (and obscure) 3D printing tools and spares</a></p>
<iframe width="480" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/XBoXp31PCo8" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<p>However here we are focused on specific tools to collect information, because when troubleshooting a 3D printer: knowledge is power.</p>
<h4>Calipers</h4>
<p>Digital calipers are a cheap and easy to use tools for measuring various things,. This may include printed objects, probe offsets, and measuring the movement of the machine. A ruler is a useful second choice but will not be as accurate as digital calipers. Calipers are also excellent for measuring objects when 3D modelling.</p>
<p><a href="https://amzn.to/3h62loN" target="_blank">Digital calipers on Amazon</a></p>
<h4>Multimeter</h4>
<p>A digital multimeter is a versatile tool for measuring various electrical signals. On a 3D printer they are handy for measuring the VREF for tuning stepper motor current, measuring voltage to ensure components are turning on and off as expected, but perhaps most importantly, testing continuity to trace and find broken connections. Spending more means you will also gain the ability to measure temperature.</p>
<p><a href="https://amzn.to/3m0x765" target="_blank">Budget multimeter on Amazon</a></p>
<p><a href="https://amzn.to/2EZggQx" target="_blank">Multimeter with temperature reading on Amazon</a></p>
<h4>Terminal/console software</h4>
<p>This is perhaps the most important tool: the ability to connect directly to your 3D printer to read and send information. Options include:</p>
<ol>
<li><a href="https://www.pronterface.com/" target="_blank"></a>Pronterface</a> - Free and available for Windows, Mac and Linux.</li>
<li><a href="https://octoprint.org/" target="_blank"></a>Octoprint</a> - Free host software that typically runs on a Raspberry Pi. Has a 'terminal' tab. <a href="https://youtu.be/h--RLbvQKYc" target="_blank"></a>Octoprint setup video guide</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.arduino.cc/en/software" target="_blank"></a>Arduino IDE</a> - Free and available for Windows, Mac and Linux. Less intuitive but the <i>Tools > Serial Monitor</i> option will provide a terminal.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.simplify3d.com/" target="_blank"></a>Simplify3D</a> - Paid slicing software that aso has a terminal feature.</li>
</ol>
<p>There are many others options but these are the most popular. If you already have a favourite piece of software, you don't need this list.</p>
<p>Connecting to the printer is covered in the next tab.</p>
<h4>Firmware Gcode References</h4>
<p>Once you have a working connection, you need to know what to send. A great place to start is by having the gcode reference for your firmware handy:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://marlinfw.org/meta/gcode/" target="_blank">Marlin</a></li>
<li><a href="https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode" target="_blank">RepRapFirmware / Duet3D</a></li>
<li><a href="http://smoothieware.org/supported-g-codes" target="_blank">Smoothieware</a></li>
<li><a href="https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/blob/master/docs/G-Codes.md" target="_blank">Klipper</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.lerdge.com/document/Gcode" target="_blank">Lerdge</a></li>
<li><a href="https://github.com/gnea/grbl/wiki/Grbl-v1.1-Commands" target="_blank">Grbl</a></li>
</ul>
<h4>GitHub Resources</h4>
<p>Many manufacturers of 3D printers and upgrade parts provide GitHub repositories with detailed manuals, dimensions and wiring diagrams. Here are some popular examples:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://github.com/bigtreetech" target="_blank">BigTreeTech</a></li>
<li><a href="https://github.com/makerbase-mks" target="_blank">Makerbase MKS</a></li>
<li><a href="https://github.com/Creality3DPrinting" target="_blank">Creality</a></li>
</ul>
</div>
<div id="terminal">
<h2>Connecting via terminal</h2>
<p>Typically, connecting to the printer with any of these software options involves using a USB cable, selecting a port and a baud rate.</p>
<h4>USB cable</h4>
<p>This one seems clear cut: just plug in the cable between the computer/Raspberry Pi and the mainbard. It is still worth mentioning that not all USB cables are created equal. If you are having trouble connecting, try another cable.</p>
<h4>Port</h4>
<p>On a Windows machine, after a driver is installed, the name of the port can be found in <b>Device Manager</b>:</p>
<a href="#" data-featherlight="img/devicemanager.jpg"><img class="thumb" src="img/devicemanager.jpg" /></a>
<p>As you can see, the name of the port will be <b>COM</b> followed by a number. In the example above: <b>COM6</b>.</p>
<p>On a Mac, Linux or with Octoprint on a Raspberry Pi, the name of the port will typically start with <b>ttyUSB</b>, followed by a number. For example <b>/dev/ttyUSB0</b>.</p>
<p>On any system, there may be more than one devices listed, so trial and error may be required to find the right port.</p>
<h4>Baud</h4>
<p>Baud is the speed of the serial connection between the host device and mainboard. 99% of the time the baud should be either <b>115200</b> or <b>250000</b>. This is set in the firmware but even if you don't access to the firmware source to check, just try one and then the other.</p>
<h4>Connecting</h4>
<p>In Pronterface, select the port and baud in the top left and then click connect.</p>
<a href="#" data-featherlight="img/pronterfaceconnection.jpg"><img class="thumb" src="img/pronterfaceconnection.jpg" /></a>
<p>If this is successful, you will receive a confirmation message in the terminal output. If not, try a different combination.</p>
<p>With Octoprint, we have the same options, but Octoprint will automatically cycle between them until it finds the right combination.</p>
<a href="#" data-featherlight="img/octoprintconnection.jpg"><img class="thumb" src="img/octoprintconnection.jpg" /></a>
<h4>What to send to get started</h4>
<p>To test your serial connection, send <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M115.html" target="_blank"><b>M115</b></a> which will report on your firmware, including when it was compiled and uploaded.</p>
<p>Another useful command is <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M503.html" target="_blank"><b>M503</b></a>, which will return all of the firmware variables currently in place. This output is worth copying and pasting in a document before performing major modifications. This list of variables also represents everything that can be changed and stored in the EEPROM without the need for firmware compilation.</p>
</div>
<div id="firstlayer">
<h2>First layer problems</h2>
<p>In my experience, the number one problem new 3D printer users will have is getting the bed levelled correctly and therefore an adequate first layer on a 3D print.</p>
<ul>
<li>If the nozzle is the correct distance from the bed, the extruded plastic will squish into the surface of the bed, gaining a good grip that will keep the printed object secure until printing is complete.</li>
<li>If the nozzle is too close to the bed, the filament will be squished too much into the bed. This could damage some more delicate bed surfaces. It can also have the effect of blocking the exit of the nozzle and leading to a jam.</li>
<li>If the nozzle is too far from the bed, the first layer effectively prints in mid air, with the filament not squishing into the bed surface and therefore not adhering properly. Such a print will likely be dislodged sooner rather than later.</li>
<li>If the bed is not levelled correctly, you may have a combination of the above in the same print in different parts of the bed.</li>
<li>If the bed is warped, it may be impossible to achieve the correct distance between the nozzle and bed across the whole bed surface.</li>
</ul>
<h4>First Layer Calibration</h4>
<p>I have already created a <a href="https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#firstlayer" target="_blank">First Layer Calibration page</a> to address this need. It features a companion video:</p>
<iframe width="480" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Ze36SX1xzOE" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<p>It also features a gcode generator to created a first layer test print to suit your 3D printer.</p>
<a href="#" data-featherlight="img/firstlayerpreview.jpg"><img class="thumb" src="img/firstlayerpreview.jpg" /></a>
<p>Finally, there are reference diagrams to help you deterine your results.</p>
<a href="#" data-featherlight="img/firstlayer.jpg"><img class="thumb" src="img/firstlayer.jpg" /></a> <a href="#" data-featherlight="img/firstlayer2.jpg"><img class="thumb" src="img/firstlayer2.jpg" /></a>
<h4>Other Factors</h4>
<p>Apart from the levelling and physical distance between the nozzle and bed surface, there are a few other factors you can investigate if you are still having trouble with your first layer:</p>
<ul>
<li>Bed temperature - The bed temperature and nozzle temperature should match those stipulated by the filament manufacturer. If you attempt to print ABS with a heated bed temperature usually used for PLA (eg. 60 degrees C), the filament wiull probably look fine for the first layer but soon after will likely detach. It is also worth noting that some surfaces like Wham Bam PEX might need 10 degree C hotter bed temp over regular PEI to gain max adhesion eg. 70 degrees for PLA instad of 60 degrees.
</li>
<li>Dirty bed - Dust, debris and greasy fingerprints will inhibit the adhesion between bed and filament. Most bed surfaces benefit from a clean using Isopropyl alcohol and paper towel every few prints. Please check this for your bed to avoid damaging the surface.</li>
<li>Adhesion aids - Substances like glue stick, hairspray or even purpose made products like Dimifix may be used to increase adhesion. Again, read the instructions carefully and ensure the product will not damage your bed surface.</li>
<li>Environmental factors - A draft blowing over the printer from an open window might affect print adhesion. Ensuring a contrrolled environment will help 3D print quality overall. This may be as simple as closing doors and windows or providing a simple enclosure.</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div id="filamentjams">
<h2>Filament Jams</h2>
<p>When everything is working perfectly, the filament will be pushed through the heater block, melted and then exit the nozzle to be deposited as part of the printed object. It is possible, however, for the filament to jam somewhere in the system and cause the print to fail. The following is a list of areas to check if your 3D printer is jamming.</p>
<h4>Hot end temperature</h4>
<p>Thermoplastics require a certain temperature to melt and flow freely. Generally, the hotter the nozzle, the lower the viscosity of the filament and the more freely it flows. Upping the hot end temperature by 5 to 10 degrees is a viable test to try and stop filament jamming. If the nozzle temperature is too high, it may make the filament too 'oozy' which negatively impacts aspects like retraction. The faster you print, the higher the nozzle temperature will need to be allow the filament to melt in time.</p>
<h4>First layer squish</h4>
<p>As mentioned in the previous tab, if the nozzle is too close to the bed for the first layer, the bed blocks the exit of the nozzle which can jam the filament. Quite often you will notice the extruder stepper motor 'clicking'/missing steps only on the first layer. A first layer with too much squish is illustrated in the previous tab. If you experience jams at the start of a print, try increasing the distance between the nozzle and bed.</p>
<h4>'Baked' filament from sitting in hot nozzle</h4>
<p>Try to avoid leaving your nozzle at printing temperatures when the printer is idle. This can be easy to do, perhaps you heat up the nozzle for a filament swap and then get distracted. Over time, the filament in the nozzle can degrade, harden and then block the tip. This will likely require removal and cleaning.</p>
<h4>PTFE tube not correctly seated</h4>
<p>Hot ends can either be lined or 'all metal'. In a lined hot end, the PTFE tube runs through the heat break and either into the inside of the nozzle or jammed hard against the top of it. This design is popular on Creality and other budget machines.</p>
<p>If there are any gaps in the system between the PTFE tube and the metal components, filament is free to expand into the wider cavity and prevent the filament from moving through the whole system. This is illustrated in the diagram below with the resulting filament bulge which causes the jam:</p>
<a href="#" data-featherlight="img/ptfegap.jpg"><img class="thumb" src="img/ptfegap.jpg" /></a>
<p>To stop this problem, it is essential to have a good quality tube fitting that wll hold the PTFE tube in place. As these fittings can degrade over time, <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3203831" target="_blank">Luke Hatfield has developed a simple but effective fix</a> to modify Creality lined hot ends so the tube remains seated. CHEP has made a great video on testing this solution:</p>
<iframe width="480" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7tCxO17XZtw" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<h4>Stripped filament in hobbed gear</h4>
<p>This problem is illustrated below:</p>
<a href="#" data-featherlight="img/strippedfilament.jpg"><img class="thumb" src="img/strippedfilament.jpg" /></a>
<p>The hobbed gear has tiny teeth to grab the filament and push it through the hot end. This problem often comes from an obstruction further along the system - a blockage in the nozzle for instance. The filament has no where to go, the hobbed gear cuts a trench in the filament an the debris clogs the hobbed gear. Quite often this problem must be checked and cleared after solving a jam elsewhere. After disassembly to gain access, a spare toothbrush is an excellent tool for cleaning the hobbed gear(s).</p>
<h4>Heat creep</h4>
<p>It is vital that only a specific section of the hot end assembly remains hot enough to fully melt the filament. To achieve this, a heat sink is typically fitted above a heat break that is actively cooled by a fan. This prevents the filament path above the melt zone from heating up and softening or melting the filament prematurely. This is illustrated well by Slice Engineering on their <a href="https://www.sliceengineering.com/products/copperhead%E2%84%A2" target="_blank">Copperhead hot end page:</a></p>
<video class="pf-html5-video" width="20%" height="auto" type="video/mp4?v=1585860716" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0252/5285/5880/t/2/assets/Copperhead-2.85---ramp-up-25-250-C.mp4?v=1585860716" controls="" loop="" playsinline="" autoplay="" controlslist="nodownload" disablepictureinpicture="" muted="true"></video>
<p>If the heat sink cooling fan is starting to degrade, heat creep may soften the filament and cause a jam. As it is hard to diagnose a faulty fan, it may be easier to swap it to a good unit for peace of mind.</p>
<p>Some printers like The Monoprice Mini Delta has weak heat sink cooling systems from factory. I have found in this particular printer, I have to print 5-10 degrees below what I normally use to prevent heat creep.</p>
<p>Finally, it is possible for heat creep to affect a bowden tube design printer. If the extruder stepper gets too hot, the heat may creep up and cause the hobbed gear to also get hot. This will soften the filament and possibly lead to stripped filament as illustrated previously.</p>
<p>Heat creep jams normally occur a set amount of time into the print. If you notice that the printer jams approximately the same amount of time into the print regardless of the object, this may be the amount of time it takes the heat to creep up and saturate the system.</p>
<h4>Filament path obstruction/tangle</h4>
<p>This one can be easy to overlook. In the case of a clear tangle of the filament on the spool, the cause of the jam will be obvious:</p>
<a href="#" data-featherlight="img/filamenttangle.jpg"><img class="thumb" src="img/filamenttangle.jpg" /></a>
<p>It is also worth checking the filament can pull freely from the spool if you have some sort of guide system like a reverse bowden tube. Also check the filament spool can rotate freely.</p>
<h4>Physical obstruction in nozzle</h4>
<p>After printing a higher temperature filament, it is important to ensure that this has been completely purged from the nozzle when switching back to a lower temperature filament like PLA. Failing to do this or perhaps leaving filament to degrade in a hot nozzle might leave harder chunks of filament obstructing the path through the nozzle. An acupuncture needle, cleaning filament pushed through at high temp or performing a cold pull will clean the inside the inside of the nozzle in many cases. Sometimes, however, it is necessary to remove the nozzle and use a solvent or my favourite: a blow torch, to clean the nozzle more aggressively.</p>
<p>This problem can often be identified by abnormal extrusion in free air. The filament exiting the nozzle may be undersized and coming out at a strange angle.</p>
<h4>Excessive retraction</h4>
<p>This one is very rare, but if retraction distance is set too high in the slicer, the filament may be pulled so far out of the nozzle that a molten section pulls into the cool zone, solidifying as it sticks to the walls, jamming the system.</p>
<h4>Seasoning the hot end</h4>
<p>This is something I've never personally done, but it has been the solution for patrons when all else had failed. The process involves introducing a small amount of oil to lubricate the internals of the hot end and assist filament is moving through freely. This process is demonsrated below by Nillabean:</p>
<iframe width="480" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/shSfZxK-VUk" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<h4>Extruder stepper current too low</h4>
<p>This should only be examined after checking and eliminating the more common causes above. Increasing the current to the extruder stepper motor and therefore the torque available will increase the system's ability to push filament out of the nozzle. If all else is well this may be just what is needed to make the printer reliable. If there is a blockage or problem elsewhere, however, this step will at best mask the problem or at worst enflame it. <a href="https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#steppers" target="_blank">Stepper motor current tuning is covered on this calibration page</a>.</p>
</div>
<div id="direction">
<h2>Motor Direction</h2>
<p>Let's say we have completed an extruder upgrade, changed stepper motor drivers, swapped the mainboard or built a custom machine and one or more axes are reversed. In this tab we will deal with testing and fixing this problem.</p>
<h4>Testing</h4>
<p>Generally you would use the 3D printer's LCD menu or manual controls from a touchscreen, Octoprin or Pronterface to manually move each axis to see if the axis moves as expected. Keep in mind:</p>
<ul>
<li>Some printers won't move some axes until the printer is homed. If an axis is reversed, be handy on the power switch to avoid a damaging collision when trying to home.</li>
<li>Most firmwares will not allow an axis to move to a value smaller than zero.</li>
<li>Each of these manual movement methods puts the printers in relative relative move mode, send the movement command, then *should* put the printer back in absolute mode. The sequence should look lke this (eg. Move the axis 20mm to the right):
<pre>G91
G1 X20 F360
G90</pre>
If sending your own G1 commands to test movement, be careful to check if the printer is in relative or absolute mode as this may skew the results if you have this backwards.</li>
<li>Manual movements may not always be intuitive. On a machine where the bed moves vertically instead of the X axis gantry, a downward bed movement represents an increase in Z axis value. i3 'bed slinger' designs also confuse people too. Mark where you think min and max are on the bed with masking tape to make sure the nozle is moving in te right direction when testing.</li>
<li>The hot end will need to be up to temp before you can manually move the extruder, due to cold extrusion protection built int the firmware.</li>
</ul>
<iframe width="480" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/XBoXp31PCo8" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<p>However here we are focused on specific tools to collect information, because when troubleshooting a 3D printer: knowledge is power.</p>
</div>
<div id="directon">
<h2>Motor Direction</h2>
<p>I have a video on useful tools for 3D printing: <a href="https://youtu.be/XBoXp31PCo8" target="_blank">Essential (and obscure) 3D printing tools and spares</a></p>
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<p>However here we are focused on specific tools to collect information, because when troubleshooting a 3D printer: knowledge is power.</p>
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