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Update calibration.html

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Peter Smythe
2020-08-16 18:25:29 +02:00
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<div class="warning">
<h2>Warning - Read carefully!</h2>
<p>Every attempt has been made to ensure this is safe but ultimately there always is risk in running pre-sliced gcode from the internet. Preview the gcode in your slicer or <a href="http://gcode.ws/" target="_blank">Gcode.ws</a> and <span style="color:red; font-weight: bolder;">print at your own risk.</span></p>
<p>Only print this gcode when you are present, alert, and capable of stopping the printer in case of emergency.</p>
<p>Validation has been built into the forms to only allow sensible min and max values; however this is not foolproof.</p>
<p>Only print this gcode when you are present, alert and capable of stopping the printer in case of emergency.</p>
<p>Validation has been built into the forms to only allow sensible min and max values, however this is not foolproof.</p>
<p>The gcode generated by this page has the following general characteristics:</p>
<ul>
<li>0.2mm layer height</li>
@ -58,7 +58,7 @@
<li>Nozzle priming has been turned off to avoid bed clips or problems with deltas</li>
<li>A single layer skirt (except on the acceleration test)</li>
</ul>
<p>To be compatible, your printer should have a minimum bed size of 100 x 100mm. The largest print is 85x 95 x 30mm.</p>
<p>To be compatible, your printer should have a miniumum bed size of 100 x 100mm. The largest print is 85x 95 x 30mm.</p>
</div>
</div>
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<h5>When required:</h5>
<p>Any time the frame or mechanical components have been disassembled or replaced.</p>
<h5>Tools:</h5>
<p>Basic spanners, allen keys, etc.</p>
<p>Basic spanners, Allen keys, etc.</p>
</div>
<p>It would be easy to use the techniques elsewhere on this page to try and fix problems that were actually caused by a problem with the physical components, so we will eliminate this possibility first.</p>
<p>Many of these procedures are covered in this video: <a href="https://youtu.be/T-Z3GmM20JM" target="_blank">Complete beginner's guide to 3D printing - Assembly, tour, slicing, levelling and first prints</a></p>
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<h4>PTFE Tube</h4>
<p>If your printer has PTFE tube, such as a bowden tube setup for the extruder/hot end, it is essential to make the tube is fully inserted and seated in the coupler. Also ensure the coupler is properly tightened. You may wish to use a small retaining clip on the coupler to prevent the tube working loose: <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4268489" target="_blank">Creality PTFE clip by morfidesign</a>.</p>
<h4>Nozzle</h4>
<p>It is worth heating up the nozzle and pushing some filament through to see if it is exiting the nozzle properly. If the diameter is inconsistent or the extruded plastic shoots to one side, it may indicate a partial blockage in the nozzle that will be a pain in the future. It is also worth checking if the nozzle is properly tightened. Only do this when it is hot or you may break it.</p>
<p>It is worth heating up the nozzle and pushing some filament through to see if it is exiting the nozzle properly. If the diameter is inconsistent or the extruded plastic shoots to one side, it may indicate a partial blockage in the nozzle that will be a pain in the future. It is also worth checking if the nozzle is properly tightened. Only do this when it is hot, or you may break it.</p>
<h4>Belts</h4>
<p>Ensure all belts are properly alinged and tensioned sufficiently. Also check the grub screws are tight on the pulleys that connect the belts to the stepper motors.</p>
<p>Ensure all belts are properly aligned and tensioned sufficiently. Also check the grub screws are tight on the pulleys that connect the belts to the stepper motors.</p>
<h4>Fans</h4>
<p>Check all fans are spinning freely. This includes but is not limited to: mainboard cooling fan, heat sink fan, part cooling fan, PSU fan. It can be hard to diagose if a fan is performing at less than full capacity. It may be easier to simply replace than repair if you suspect a fan is failing.</p>
<p>Another suitable video for seeing some of these procedures is here:</p>
@ -102,7 +102,7 @@
<h5>Aim:</h5>
<p>To ensure the heating of the 3D printer nozzle and bed are safe, stable and consistent.</p>
<h5>When required:</h5>
<p>Any time the hot end is changed, including addng/removing a silicone sock or altering part cooling fan/ducts. Any time the bed is changed, such as adding a glass/mirror plate, magnetic spring steel sheet and/or under bed insulation.</p>
<p>Any time the hot end is changed, including adding/removing a silicone sock or altering part cooling fan/ducts. Any time the bed is changed, such as adding a glass/mirror plate, magnetic spring steel sheet and/or under bed insulation.</p>
<h5>Tools:</h5>
<p>Terminal software such as <a href="https://www.pronterface.com/" target="_blank">Pronterface</a> or <a href="https://octoprint.org/" target="_blank">Octoprint</a>.</p>
</div>
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<pre>M303 E-1 S60 U1</pre>
<p>The bed is selected with <ib>E-1</b>, and the temp set to 60 degrees. Substitute as necessary for your normal printing bed temperature. Once again save to EEPROM afterwards with:</p>
<pre>M500</pre>
<p>It may be preferable to have the printer as close to printing conditions as possible during these tuning prodecures. That means having filament loaded and the part cooling fan on for PLA temperatures.</p>
<p>It may be preferable to have the printer as close to printing conditions as possible during these tuning procedures. That means having filament loaded and the part cooling fan on for PLA temperatures.</p>
</div>
<div id="baseline">