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@ -743,6 +743,7 @@
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<li>Slicer settings such as coast and wipe: Coast stops extrusion slightly early to assist retraction. It effectively lets the hot end 'run dry' at the end of the printing movement to reduce ooze. This varies from slicer to slicer and isn't always necessary to tune.
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<br />Wipe moves the nozzle back towards the recently printed geometry to wipe ooze off. If you are having trouble reducing stringing, it may be a good option.
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<br />Both coast and wipe are turned off in the gcode generator below.</li>
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<li>Maximum extruder feedrate: Your firmware may have a hard limit imposed on extruder movement that is below the retraction speed values you are attempting to use with the form below. You may need to use <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M203.html" target="_target">M203</a> to raise the extrder feedrate limit to try higher values for retraction speed. This potentially needs to be saved with <b>M500</b> if you want it to be permanent.</li>
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<li>Travel feedrate and acceleration: A travel move is one where the printer moves to a new location without extruding. The slower this move is, the more time filament will have to ooze from the nozzle and add to stringing. The feedrate is set to 100mm/sec in the gcode generator below, and does not include any changes to what is set on your printer for acceleration. You can change travel acceleration with <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M204.html" target="_blank">M204</a> and the <b>T</b> argument.</li>
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<li>Linear advance: Linear advance, covered later in this guide, can drastically improve the accuracy of our extrusion. It has a significant impact of retraction (reducing the need), so after configuring linear advance you may need to revisit retraction.</li>
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<li>Slicer differences: The gcode generated below was originally sliced by Simplify3D. The settings you establish should translate to your slicer quite well but there may be idiosyncrasies. For instance, Cura measures extra restart distance in volume rather than length.</li>
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@ -353,7 +353,7 @@ z_probe: open</pre>
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<p class="warning">According to the Marlin M119 documentation, a BLtouch is in an error state if it reports <b>TRIGGERED</b> to the terminal. Howwver my BLtouch installation works as described above and has been working perfectly for years now without error, so perhaps this varies from mainboard to mainboard. An additional BLtouch testing method is shown on the <a href="#pindebugging">Pins Debugging / Direct Pin Control tab</a> if the sequence above does not work for you.</p>
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<h4>BLtouch physical mounting</h4>
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<p>It should go without saying that everything should be rigidly mounted. BLtouch kits come with small springs but I have never used them without issue. Check for any loose fasteners in the print head and probe mounting assembly as a first step. If there is play and the BLtouch can pivot or slide from probing point to probing point, accuracy will really suffer.</p>
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<p>Ideally the BLtouch (or any other ABL probe) will be mounted as closely to the nozzle as possible, but not so close it fails from exposure to heat. What people often forget is that the tip of the retracted probe needs to be a certain distance from the tip of he nozzle, as illustrated in the Antclabs diagram:</p>
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<p>Ideally the BLtouch (or any other ABL probe) will be mounted as closely to the nozzle as possible, but not so close it fails from exposure to heat. A silicone sock over the heater block can assist here. What people often forget is that the tip of the retracted probe needs to be a certain distance from the tip of he nozzle, as illustrated in the Antclabs diagram:</p>
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<a href="#" data-featherlight="img/bltouchdimensions.jpg"><img class="thumb" src="img/bltouchdimensions.jpg" /></a>
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<p>If your BLtouch is mounting too far off this target of 2.3 to 4.3mm, the probing results may be inaccurate. For a guide to measuring and inputing the probe X, Y and Z offsets, see this video guide:</p>
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<iframe width="480" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/fN_ndWvXGBQ" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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@ -44,7 +44,7 @@
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<iframe width="480" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/eF060dBEnfs" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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<p>For this guide, we will start with the physical mounting of the BLtouch, then cover wiring, firmware changes, calibration, slicer changes, customisation and troubleshooting.</p>
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<h4>Physical mounting</h4>
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<p>A BLtouch needs to be mounted to the print head of the machine. Like any ABL probe, the closer you can position it to the nozzle when looking directly from above, the better. The BLtouch should be secured tightly. Any play or wobble will destroy accuracy and repeataility. Other considerations when mounting are making sure the BLtouch is not so close to the hot end that it suffers damage from heat, and that its placement does not interfere with homing.</p>
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<p>A BLtouch needs to be mounted to the print head of the machine. Ideally the BLtouch (or any other ABL probe) will be mounted as closely to the nozzle as possible, but not so close it fails from exposure to heat. A silicone sock over the heater block can assist here. The BLtouch should be secured tightly. Any play or wobble will destroy accuracy and repeataility. Other considerations when mounting are making sure the BLtouch is not so close to the hot end that it suffers damage from heat, and that its placement does not interfere with homing.</p>
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<p>As the BLtouch is very popular, there is a wide range of printed mounts available on Thingiverse and other 3D file sharing sites. Below are some examples:</p>
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<ul>
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<li><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3003725/" target="_blank">Ender 3 (Pro) / CR-10</a></li>
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Reference in New Issue
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